Topdeck Travel Blog

No. 36 Feel the Power of Mighty Vic Falls

As up to three thousand tonnes of water plunges over a nearly two-kilometre-long precipice every second, plummeting over a hundred metres down, the resulting white cloud of spray billowing high into the air can be seen up to thirty miles away. Both the sheer ferocity of the falls and the awesome spectacle it creates are eloquently summed up in the name given to it by those living within earshot: Mosi-oa-Tunya, ‘the Smoke that Thunders’.

That we know this mighty force of nature by the less poetic Victoria Falls is thanks to David Livingstone, the British explorer who is believed to be the first European to witness them. It is a reflection of the colonial attitudes of the day that he chose to name them in honour of the reigning Queen Victoria, similar to the attitude that would see a nearby Zambian town named Livingstone.

Fortunately though, just as a rose by any other name would cost as much, the astounding power of the world’s largest falls thunders for itself, making the chance to see them one of the most coveted travel experiences around.

But this isn’t simply about turning up, joining a group of poncho wearing tourists and taking a boat out to within a zoom-lens distance. No, no, no! The only way to really do justice to the force of the falls is to experience it in a manner as awesome and memorable as the falls themselves. And fortunately, there are a few options to choose from that will let you do just that.

Get an angel’s-eye view

In describing what he had witnessed, Livingstone said that such an amazing scene “must have been gazed upon by angels in their flight.” And what better way to fully grasp the magnitude and scale of the scene than to take to the air. The closest you can get to flying with the angels is a microlight flight over the area. From this vantage point you have an all-knowing view of the scene, as you can see both the wide Zambezi snaking its way down unaware, and the deep gorge ahead into which it is about to plunge a hundred metres to the rocks below. Not even Top Gun at an IMAX can take your breath away quite like the combined experience of gliding in the air, the wind gushing through your hair while some of nature’s greatest theatre plays out beneath you.

For those not so keen to put all their faith in a microflight, there are also helicopter flights that offer a similar experience. But the enclosed cabin and roar of the propellers dilutes the experience for some.

DO look down!

If flying high above the falls is the domain of the angels, then your next option is aptly named. Devil’s Pool tests the trepidation of even the most fearless traveller, as it involves jumping unaided into the river just a few metres upstream of the falls. Then, as the current drags you closer and closer towards the edge, with nothing in reach to stop you hurtling over with the current, at the very last minute a lip in the pool halts the flow and leaves you resting on a rocky outcrop and peering down into the deep abyss below. Never will you appreciate more the sheer size and force of Vic Falls than to sit in the middle of it and look down over the edge!

Going into free-fall

As to truly experiencing the sensation of free falling 100 metres to the rocks below, well the best way to do that is to just hop in a barrel a few hundred yards upstream and let gravity take care of the rest. Probably no less exhilarating though – and considerably kinder to loved ones – is the nearby bungee jump that lets you take the same fast route to the bottom of the gorge.

If your budget, or perhaps even your bladder, excludes you from doing a bungee, there are plenty of other activities available that have earned the region a reputation for being the Africa’s adventure playground. From the heart-stopping, such as a gorge swing or white water rafting on the Zambezi (starting below the falls we add), to the spirit-warming, like a sunset cruise in search of wildlife, there is something in and around the area that doesn’t just let you see them, but lets you live the force of nature that is the spectacular Victoria Falls.

And would you believe it, many of Topdeck's fabulous Africa adventures spend several days in and around Livingstone, meaning you'll have the chance to try all, or at least one of, the above for yourself and truly expereience the power of the mighty Vic Falls.

No. 35 Pay homage to forces of nature in the company of the Navajo

So often have gun-slinging cowboys and bow-and-arrow-wielding ‘Indians’ been seen on horseback charging across this striking and desolate landscape on cinema screens, with their beasts’ thundering hooves stirring up great billows of dust, that Monument Valley has become virtually synonymous with the great Hollywood Western.

And it has to be said, to head out into this wide and beautifully sparse expanse and just bear witness to the collection of surreal buttes that sprout randomly out of the desert floor, like giant plinths in honour of nature, is a truly memorable experience.

But to do so under the guidance of a local Navajo, the Native American tribe for whom this striking region is both traditionally and spiritually home, well, that is another story altogether.

Get to know the Navajo

Monument Valley lies within a designated reservation named the Navajo Nation. The entire region, known to the Navajo people as Diné Bikéyah, makes up a vast area of the American southwest called the Four Corners, as each ‘corner’ of the nation extends into four different states.

The Navajo themselves are the largest recognised Native American tribe in the US and lived here for centuries before Europeans arrived in the Americas. When the nomadic Navajo themselves first came to the region, the area was already inhabited by another Native American group known as the Ancient Pueblo People, who had been here since as early as 1200 BC. Unlike like the hunter-gatherer Navajo, the Pueblo had established permanent dwellings and even had palaces built into rock faces that can still be seen today. The Navajo settled here and went on to adopt a more permanent and agricultural lifestyle from the Pueblo.

After European arrival however, a pretty dark period of persecution, inter-tribal warfare and even forced migrations ensued before the eventual the creation of a reservation. This has since enabled the Navajo to retain their traditional lifestyle, merging with a modern-day way of life where appropriate, and creating a semi-autonomous 'nation' that has meant the Navajo have been able to protect their identity and survive.

Know your butte from your elbow

When visiting Monument Valley today, regardless of the urge, it would probably be pretty inappropriate to don a Stetson and pair of spurs, jump on a stallion and cry ‘Geronimo!’ as you head off in search of imaginary redskins. Instead, far more interesting and informative – not to mention more sensitive – would be to join a local Navajo guide and venture out into the great expanse and learn first-hand about the natural forces that created this striking setting as well as how a very different people have lived, and continue to live, in such a harsh yet spellbinding part of the world.

The defining characteristic of Tsé Bii? Ndzisgaii (or Monument Valley as it is perhaps better known) is clearly the towering buttes and large mesas that proudly dominate the scene; they were the silent stars of so many Hollywood classics. The tremendous forces that have forged the area over millions of years are responsible for the many buttes and mesas, which are made of rock stronger than the surrounding sandstone and have thus withstood the erosion that has taken place around them. The mighty that have remained standing while the weaker around them have been subdued, if you like. The difference between a butte and a mesa (the later gets its name from the Spanish for ‘table’) is that the later has a top that is wider than the rock is high – much like a table top – while anything else is called a butte.

But nothing can substitute the experience of having a member of the Navajo Nation explain this to you in greater detail as you stand beneath one of these behemoths staring up in awe at the beauty and sheer size of such a masterpieces of nature.

Fortunately for you, it just so happens that Topdeck now run tours of the Southwest, of which most visit Monument Valley with an included Navajo-guided jeep safari. You really do have to experience it for yourself!

No. 33 Jump up, jump up, and get down with the Maasai warriors!

How does this sound for a movie idea? An American basketball coach (to be played by someone versatile like, say, Kevin Bacon) gets this great idea to go to Africa, convinced that he’s going to find the next Michael Jordan amongst the famous jumping tribesmen of the Maasai – as obviously being able to jump’s all it takes!

Yeah, ok, so ‘The Air up There’ was a howler and the aforementioned actor really should take a good long look at himself for being involved. And forgetting, if we can, that the makers of this film took such a potentially fascinating subject only to render such a frightfully dull story, it’s perhaps no great surprise that the iconic red-robed warriors of the Maasai leapt to Hollywood’s attention, as their traditional way of life, elaborately colourful jewellery and, of course, legendary ‘jump dance’ have captured the imagination of people the world over for decades.

And it is for this way of life, and the Maasai’s ability to maintain these fascinating traditions in the face of governmental pressure to modernise and settle – and not Hollywood’s efforts to caricaturise them – that make visiting the tribes where they live and witnessing their culture one of our top travel experiences to do before you’re 40.

So just who are the Maasai?

The Maasai are a semi-nomadic people (a bit more about that later) who live in the region of the Great Rift Valley on both sides of border of Tanzania and Kenya. The grazing and ownership of livestock is central to the Maasai’s existence as it plays a central role in everything from their economy to social standing and community interaction. The protection of livestock, particularly from predators such as lions, gave rise to the ‘Maasai warrior’, for whom the daunting prospect of hunting a lion is something of a rite of passage. It is important to note that since lion numbers have been in decline, this practice has changed accordingly and policies to compensate lost cattle have also reduced the number of lion hunted by warriors.

And what’s got them jumping up and down?

The sight of the Maasai men, decked out in their bright red robes and leather sandals, leaping straight-legged and incredibly high into the air, as if assisted by a hidden trampoline, is perhaps the most iconic and enduring image of this people. Indeed the ‘adumu’, often called the ‘jumping dance’ is a popular tradition and is performed during a warrior’s ‘coming of age ceremony’. During the dance groups of men will form a circle and one or more will enter the centre and try jump as high as they can and outdo one another, while others voice their appreciation in song.

Though it isn’t all about the men. The Maasai women are also well known for the elaborate jewellery they wear as well as colourful robes, and the chance to show off their huge, colourful neck pieces is an equally important part of the same ceremonies.

Why is their lifestyle under threat?

As semi-nomads, although they will build semi-permanent dwellings and even grow crops, they do graze their cattle on a rotational basis over a wide area. Ecologists in the mid twentieth century attributed this to the destruction of sparse resources. Although this view has been convincingly challenged it is one still held by Tanzanian and Kenyan governments who have run programmes to get the Maasai to abandon their traditional lifestyle and settle permanently. This, as well as the introduction of concepts such as private ownership and integration in the outside economy, has hugely altered their traditional way of life, making their future uncertain.

What about visiting the Maasai

With the Maasai way of life under threat, many Maasai tribes today welcome visitors, to share with them the lifestyle that they have practiced for centuries and want to protect. It also helps draw attention to the governments the role the Maasai lifestyle can have in attracting tourism, and as a result and make them more inclined to do more to protect that way of life. So hopefully visiting the Maasai people can be as beneficial to them as it is an interesting and informative experience to us. Topdeck has a great range of amazing trips to Africa, many of which visit East Africa where you can visit a Maasai tribe and learn more about their unique way of life.

No. 33 March to the beat of history through Moscow’s Red Square

For decades during Communist rule, Moscow’s Red Square served as a small window through which the rest of the world would be a able to peer behind the Iron Curtain to see a picture of the Soviet Union carefully choreographed by the regime. During much of the Cold War it was here that the state would hold its many grand parades and ceremonies, during which thousands of troops would march in perfect synchrony and semi-erect missiles would be dragged past the crowds and cameras, as if to demonstrate the Soviet’s potency to the rest of the world.

Today, to stroll across the cobbles, those silent witnesses to a nation’s long history, surrounded by the same iconic buildings that were once fortresses of secrets and intrigue, is to evoke an inescapable sense of events and a time that so significantly influenced the course of human history.

What’s in a name?

Despite its role as the public face of the Soviet Union, the square’s name has nothing to do with the nation’s Communist past; red being the established colour of socialism the world over and used liberally by the Soviet state from its flag to the Red Army. Nor does it even have anything to do with the predominance of the ever-present red colour throughout the square, from the outer walls of the Kremlin to the exposed noses of cold tourists. No, sadly, the truth is a little bit more mundane than both those theories, and it is simply that the Russian word that today means ‘red’, in another time simply meant ‘beauty’.

But in a way this is probably a fortunate thing, as despite how stunning the place may be, hearing the name ‘Beautiful Square’ could never conjure up that equal measure of suspicion and intrigue, or hope to evoke the sheer weight of history with a twinge of romanticism as when you think of Russia’s Red Square.

A virtual tour

As you stand in the middle of this vast pedestrian-only area in the heart of bustling Moscow, the huge complex known as the Kremlin, with its long and striking red fortifications, dominates the whole western side of the square. Now the place President Putin calls home, the majority of the complex that stands today was built in the fifteenth century and has been occupied by Russian monarchs, or tsars, and a string of Soviet dictators as the seat of a nation’s power.

Turning left, your attention is soon yanked to the southern side by the eclectically coloured and multi-styled onion domes that rise up seemingly incoherently from iconic St Basil’s Cathedral. The red-brick cathedral was built on the orders of Ivan the Terrible in the sixteenth century, and whether or not he earned his sobriquet for his questionable taste in colour schemes, he was responsible for the construction of Moscow’s most recognisable landmark.

Directly behind you now, to the north, is the big red gingerbread-house-like facade of the State Historical Museum. Relatively modern to those around it being built at the end of the nineteenth century, inside is a different story where a vast collection of artefacts documents the Russia’s considerable history from prehistoric tribes onwards.

And finally, to your right on the east side of the square is the large ornate shopping centre known by its acronym GUM. Today, as a high temple to capitalism it may seem like a two-fingered salute to the failed dreams of Lenin who lies interned a stone’s throw away, but even during the Soviet Union it was for many years a state-run department store – but presumably without the trendy international brands that have outlets here today.

Sadly though, no flights of imagination can substitute the experience of being there in person to witness the real thing: to march through the epicentre of one of history’s most significant periods.

March here for more information about Topdeck’s fabulous trips to Russia that give you the opportunity to parade through Moscow’s fascinating Red Square for yourself.

No. 32  Discover the joy of classical music in Vienna

Why don’t you realise Vienna waits for you? When will you realise Vienna waits for you? – Billy Joel

Oh Vienna! Or so sang Ultravox. But the claim to be the world’s foremost city of music relies a great deal more on the pivotal role the Austrian capital played during the classical music era of the 18th and 19th centuries than it does with 80s new wave music and the tireless Billy Joel.

Lured by the lucrative patronage of the ruling Hapsburgs of the time, many of the world’s most famous composers came to live in Vienna, making it very much the European capital of classical music. And with so many fabulous theatres still thriving in the city today, it is the significance of hearing a piece masterly performed here in its spiritual home that makes going to a classical concert in Vienna a travel experience not to be missed.

Sadly, classical music has a bit of a reputation for being, if not completely elitist, then hugely inaccessible to many of us. But it shouldn’t be. And don’t worry if you don’t know your Wolfgangs from your Ludwigs, or can’t separate Shubert from Strauss by the first sound of strings, with our quick guide to some of the great composers who lived in Vienna, when you do get the chance to witness a classical performance here in the hallowed halls of its spiritual home, the music will sound that much more meaningful, the spectacle be that much more colourful and the experience that much more memorable as a result.

Know your composers

Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart – Arguably the best known of the Vienna crew, Mozart was also one of the most prolific composers. Born in 1756, by the age of five the young overachiever was not simply content with being able to play violin and piano but was already composing. Moving to Vienna in 1781, he soon became known as the best piano player in town. Earning a living as a musician and teacher, he would go on to create over 600 pieces of work across the spectrum of symphonies, concertos, operas and choir music – a bit like an 18th century Pharrell but on a much bigger scale!

Ludwig van Beethoven – Born in Germany in 1770, Beethoven is right up there alongside Mozart in the Classical Hall of Fame. If not as prolific as Beethoven, he was probably more influential than his fellow composer constantly pushing the boundaries of music conventions of the time. He had originally hoped to study alongside Mozart, but wasn’t able to move to Vienna until 1792, a year after the great composer’s death. Beethoven would go on to slowly lose his hearing, and amazingly compose some of his best work after he had gone completely deaf.

Franz Schubert ­– Actually born in Vienna, in 1797, Schubert was the Kurt Cobain or Jim Morrison of his time, dying aged just 31. However, unlike modern musical prodigies, Schubert would become much better known in the years after his death. His best-known work is his Symphony No. 8, better known as the ‘Unfinished Symphony’ as he only ever wrote two movements despite living for six years after he started it.

Johannes Strauss II – Far removed from the above composers who are known to make up the ‘First Viennese School’, Strauss was born in Vienna a bit later in 1825 and was more of a modern pop star and famous for his ‘light’ compositions. Known as the ‘Waltz King’ as he was largely responsible for the popular dance movement in the 19th century. And if you don’t recognise his work the ‘Blue Danube’ by its name, you’re bound to just by listening to the first bar.

Topdeck has many great Europe trips that visit Vienna to choose from.

Stroll across continents and through the centuries in Istanbul

If the Earth were a single state, Istanbul would be its capital – Napoleon Bonaparte

Picture the scene: an evening sun sets silhouetting an undulating row of domes and minarets in the distance; in front of you an entire armada of every known type of vessel, from humble fishing boat to mighty oil tanker, criss-crosses the Boshphorus that separates you from Asia; as you sip on your tea the light breeze off the straight carries with it the compelling sound of a hundred competing calls to prayer and the rich smell of a multitude of spices and dishes being cooked up all around you. Welcome to Istanbul!

Straddling two continents, this magnificent city is a bustling and lively metropolis set amidst the timeless remnants of centuries of history and competing civilisations, making it one of the most exciting destinations on any traveller’s roadmap.

A brief history through time

The first to occupy this coveted spot was the Greek city of Byzantium over 500 years before Christ. In the fourth century BC, some 200 years after the city was absorbed by the Roman Empire, then Emperor Constantine decided to relocate the capital of the entire Empire from Rome to what would become known as Constantinople. After the Roman Empire split, the Eastern Empire, better known as the Byzantine Empire, continued to thrive for centuries after the downfall of its western counterpart with Constantinople as its capital. By the 15th century AD the burgeoning Ottoman Empire had conquered all of the Byzantine Empire beyond Constantinople. This once mighty empire, now reduced to just the city within its fortified walls – the remnants of which are still very much visible today – survived an eight-week-long siege before finally falling under Ottoman rule. It wasn’t until after the Ottoman Empire itself collapsed 500 years later and the modern state of Turkey was created that the city would come to be known as Istanbul.

Present-day Istanbul

Often touted today as the place where ‘East meets West’, this tag is as much a cultural description as it is a geographic location, as centuries of influence from both camps compete to create its modern landscape. And there is no better way to absorb the cultural contrast and lengthy history than to stroll through the centuries as you saunter down the city’s streets and narrow alleys, encountering ancient relics and religious monuments, all the while being greeted by the exotic sights, sounds and smells of modern Turkish culture.

Five must-dos in Istanbul

– See the city’s grandeur from the water on a Bosphorus cruise: whether you choose a two-hour option or go for a full afternoon on the water, this is a truly fabulous experience not to be missed as it gives you the most comprehensive perspective of the city from the very waters that define its existence.

­– ‘Come into my shop while I rip you off!’ You will inevitably be hassled as you stroll the maze of aisles and hundreds of shops that make up the Grand Bazaar, but don’t let this put you off; instead take it in your stride, as it’s frequently good natured and often even entertaining. Even if you’re not looking to buy, just witnessing the variety of what’s on offer and the techniques used to lure you in is worth experiencing at least once.

– Stand in the middle of the Hagia Sophia and gaze up in awe at the dome above you. Commissioned to be a cathedral worthy of a mighty empire, the Hagia Sofia was and still is an architectural masterpiece. It also embodies the history of the city, as evidence of its conversion from cathedral to mosque and then museum is very much evident.

– While the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, better known as the Blue Mosque, is the most famous and renowned throughout the Muslim world for its architectural splendour and definitely worth a visit, the older, and in fact bigger, Suleymaniye Mosque with its combination of Islamic and Byzantine styles shouldn’t be missed either.

– One evening choose from the many nargile bars to be found under the Galata Bridge spanning the Golden Horn and lie back on a beanbag and witness a spectacular sunset while puffing on a water pipe sampling a variety of flavoured tobacco or just sipping on a rich Turkish coffee or refreshing beer.

Nearly all of Topdeck’s trips in Turkey include a few magical days in Istanbul, which will give you the chance to really get a grip on this culturally fascinating and historic city.